Match of the week

Goats cheese and mature Alsace Riesling
Last week I had the greatest cheese and wine tasting I’ve ever experienced conducted by France’s most famous affineur Bernard Antony who supplies cheese to most of France’s top chefs. You’ll have to wait till the article comes out in Decanter in a couple of months’ time for the full details but here’s a star match to whet your appetite.
It was a superb Valençay de Touraine, a goats’ cheese from the Loire which is normally served with a Loire Sauvignon Blanc but which was paired - along with other sheep and goats’ cheeses with - a 20 year old Zind Humbrecht Riesling, Clos St Urbain Rangen de Thann 1988, which was still thrillingly crisp and vivacious.What is really fabulous about M. Antony’s cheeses is that they are perfectly mature but have none of the complex farmyardy flavours that sometimes get in the way of fine wine pairings. The Valençay was pitch perfect - full and mellow but with lovely acidity and not a trace of ‘goatiness’. A fine cheese and a fine wine.

Goats' cheese and Sauvignon Blanc
Despite the freak flurries of snow and sub arctic temperatures last week spring has officially arrived and with it longer daylight hours and a switch to lighter eating. For me there’s no combination that reflects the season better than goats' cheese and Sauvignon Blanc, one of the great classic food and wine pairings.
Does it matter which goats' cheese and which Sauvignon and whether you introduce any other ingredients to the plate? Not a lot, if truth be told. You might argue that it’s impossible to beat a Sancerre paired with a Crottin de Chavignol from the same area but I’ve had equal pleasure from a young moussey goats' cheese with an unoaked New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (the match is certainly better without oak which diminishes the Sauvignon’s acidity and minerality)
If the cheese is grilled or part of a salad that will work too, especially if the salad includes soft herbs such as tarragon, coriander or dill. Likewise, asparagus, which has a similar flavour profile to Sauvignon Blanc will enhance the match. You can even add contrasting ingredients such as roasted grilled peppers and the pairing will work. Take full advantage of it!
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